Blue Knights® Law Enforcement Motorcycle Club Great Lakes Regional Conference .

Conference Safety Officer

Thurlow Haskell

How Close Does A Biker Have to Be!
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How to Fit Your Helmet to YOUR Head
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Pulling a trailer with a motorcycle

Motorcycles by design are unable to carry copious amounts of luggage or cargo. Sidecars increase loading capacity and distribution of weight, but there is nothing better than a well manufactured trailer to alternatively load a motorcycle. The main problem with loading the back-seat of a motorcycle is improper weight distribution, wear and tear, and handling problems. With proper technique, design, and loading a trailer can be added to most motorcycles.

A quick perusal through most owners manuals will provide the famous words “Vehicle not manufactured for use with a sidecar or trailer” / "use of a sidecar/trailer can/will void warranty”.  Obviously the addition of any accessory to a motorcycle must use caution; the manufacturers place these warning for reasons. The selection of a trailer would be an entire article by itself, what we will deal with here is the operation and techniques of trailering.

The hitch on the motorcycle should be sturdy (connected at least to four points on the bike). Hitches should not be connected to moving suspension components, swing-arms, shock-absorbers, or drive shafts for the obvious reasons. There should be no movement in the hitch. Hitch height should be at hub-level of the rear wheel. The distance between the rear wheel and the hitch should allow the rear wheel to move up and down unimpeded, but it should not be an excessive distance from the hub.

The best designs of trailers use the largest tire height possible and high speed bearings in the wheels. Beware the use of cheap lawn and garden tires on trailers. These types of tires are made soft and compliant so as not to damage lawns and are in no way recommended for highway use.

Trailers come in all shapes and sizes. A trailer should contain the following design features. A hitch assembly rated at a significant value higher than the gross vehicle weight of the trailer (total weight of the trailer). The trailer should have an axle width to tongue length of around 1 to 3 approximately. A significantly shorter trailer tongue will not track behind the motorcycle correctly, and a significantly longer trailer tongue will create cornering problems. There should be enough overhang to the rear of the trailer of the cargo area to allow proper loading. However, it should not be so great of overhang as to possibly drag the curb when leaving your favourite gas-stop.

A trailer is an alternative method of loading gear. A motorcycle has particular design characteristics that are being modified to allow the operator to carry more gear. As the operator you will have to decide how much is enough. A trailer is not a “blank check” to bring everything. Some simple rules for loading trailers is to take everything you would put on or in the bike and put it in the trailer instead. This is true alternative loading. Of course if you look down at the wide open maw of the emptiness of the trailer and start filling remember; the trailer total weight should be distributed over the axles so that the tongue weight is about 10 – 20 percent of the total weight of the trailer. Figure the total allowance of weight for the bike by looking in your owners manual. Add all the gear weight on the bike including passengers and riders. Don’t forget to add the tongue weight of the trailer.

If you are in the positive and not overweight your doing good. If the amounts are over start shedding gear. Motorcycles are very finicky on how much weight they are moving.
Remember all of the weight (trailer, motorcycle, rider) is still going to be stopped by those same brakes, and accelerated by the same drive train. Depending on the weight of the trailer you choose to tow, all of the components on the motorcycle are going to wear a lot faster. Brakes and tires may be the most effected component on the motorcycle. Proper loading is going be the most important part of trailering because its going to effect every other part of the handling of the motorcycle.

When starting out and stopping a trailer you want to be as straight as possible. The degree of difference at the hitch between the trailer and motorcycle is going to create side forces on the motorcycle as it begins to move. The resistance to moving of the trailer will pull the bike over in the direction the trailer is. For an example if the motorcyclist stops with the trailer “kicked out” to the right the motorcycle will be pulled to the right as it begins to move forward. With the motorcycle and trailer in line the resistance will not effect balance. If the hitch is to high, and is mounted significantly over the level of the hub a lever of force will be created when starting out lightening the front wheel of the motorcycle. The resistance of the trailer creates this effect and steering wobble is usually the result. The effect of the trailer on the bike can be very slight or so severe a hazardous riding condition will result. No matter how well the trailer or bike is setup and designed the trailer will have some of these effects.

When stopping a motorcycle trailer combination allow increased room to stop. Only experience will show how much, but the increased weight being stopped of the bike and trailer will require more brake effort over longer distances. When stopping the bike should be kept as upright and straight as possible. The surge of the trailer forward as the bike stops should be directed as straight as possible through the bike. If the bike is leaned over and turning during braking the surge will have a tendency to push the bike over in the opposite direction, or push the rear wheel to the side. This effect can be minimal or severe depending on the amount of braking and the weight of the trailer.

If the hitch is set up wrong another problem can occur. On hitches that are above the rear hub of the motorcycle when braking the weight shift normal to stopping lightens the rear wheel. This effect will be exaggerated even more by a high hitch. Some trailer manufacturers attempt to engineer methods that lessen or do away with this effect by the way their trailers are made.

Another frightening effect can be the front wheel lightening on braking. Excessively heavy trailers on low slung hitches can lighten the front wheel and create a wobble when slowing. A simplification of the problem would be a five hundred pound trailer with fifty to sixty pounds of tongue weight. Most of the weight of the trailer during braking is being transmitted to the hitch. Depending on the degree of difference between the hitch and hub that weight can transmitted in a downward direction on the hitch increasing tongue weight significantly. The effect would be similar to a five hundred pound giant standing on your hitch while you try to balance and stop.

Depending on the weight and design of a trailer in slow speed turns it will tend to pull the bike aside in the direction of the turn. This effect will be dependent on the weight of the trailer and the resistance to rolling. In high-speed (highway turns) the trailer can track on the outside of the turn pulling the bike up-right. This effect is usually minimal but can drastically effect the operation of the motorcycle if the trailer is overloaded.

Obviously the motorcycle trailer combination is going to operate easier if it is properly maintained. Most trailer manufacturers have excellent suggestions on tire inflation, bearing care, and care of hitches. The problem usually lays in the operator not doing the recommended service. Tires fail and so do bearings. The operator is the final inspector for safety when a trailer goes out on the road. Most manufacturers recommend at least seasonal maintenance on bearings and side-wall pressure ratings of tires for fully loaded trailers. As part of your pre-ride inspection of your bike include the trailer and inspect every item just like you do on your bike. Include the hitch assembly depending on the type of hitch check for obvious problems and wear. On hitches try and insure proper lubrication and fit to the bike.

Safety chains should be included on all trailers. We all have heard the excuses for improper safety chains. Some riders state they would rather have the trailer “break away” in case of accident or massive failure. Some riders think that safety chains are not required on motorcycles. Most states require safety chains or cables. If the trailer “breaks away” where is it going to go and who is it going to hurt. Ultimately the rider is responsible for any damage his vehicle or trailer causes.

Safety chains should come in pairs and be attached to the frame of the trailer and motorcycle. Some states allow appropriate cables to substitute for chains, but check your local police for verification. Chains or cables should not drag the ground and should cradle the tongue if the hitch fails. Insure that the chains or cables are long enough to allow the bike to turn.

Trailers allow a motorcyclist to include the extra gear desired and not pile the bike high with everything. A trailer may be the way to entice the significant other to come along, lured by the charms of an opulent camp sight. The trailer allows a motorcyclist to bring “real” luggage when checking into a hotel. With proper technique and set up a trailer allows more flexibility for touring/grocery getting. The signs of shock from check out staff at the local grocer are excellent

TRAILER TOWING ~ SAFETY ITEMS

1 ~ Check all lights and tire pressure before each trip and every few hundred miles... Do a walk around at every gas stop... Proper pressure, proper tire wear... Cargo trailers 18 to 20 psi. Campers 25 to 30 psi. Tires will not get hot and will give you a softer ride, preventing the trailer from bouncing when you hit a bump.

2 ~ Check lug nuts periodically... Grease bearings every 2 to 3 thousand miles...

3 ~ Maintain 15 to 20 pounds of tongue weight at ball... Use bathroom scale, place on solid surface, same height as ball... Fish scale will also work... Pack trailer to achieve proper 15 to 20 pounds... Don't load up cooler before leaving on trip, load up at destination... But if you do, counter-balance heavier items to the back... A fish scale works well also and is small to take with you...

4 ~ Don't overload trailer... Don't put heavy items on roof rack, like animals... Would you like to breath exhaust fumes? Also can make trailer top heavy...

5 ~ Your bike is now twice as long... Allow more time to stop, use both brakes... Down shift to slow down... Be sure you have enough room when passing to pull back in... Always signal... Hand signals work well, but finger signals don't... Respect others...

6 ~ Remember, trailer may be a inch or two wider than handlebars... Watch curb at toll booths and when parking... Watch pot-holes in road....

7 ~ Don't ride down center of your lane, that's where the oil is... Half way between center of your lane and center line, or, center of your lane and pavement edge is proper area to ride... Trailers are generally 38" to 44" same as touring bikes handlebars width across to each outer edge...

8 ~ On very windy days I find that a trailer may help to stabilize the bike, but don't get over confident, could change instantly...

9 ~ It is very easy to forget trailer is behind you... Ride safe and be aware...

10 ~ Use safety chains, most states require them... Proper chain length should be; Coupler should rest on chains and not touch ground if it comes off the ball...

11 ~ Always lock or bolt coupler on trailer ball... Also, if you have a receiver style hitch, be sure pin is in and lock that also...

12 ~ Remove the heavy items from saddlebags and trunk... Use the trailer...

13 ~ Home made trailer info: Too short a tongue also not enough tongue weight can cause trailer to wig wag at about 50 mph... Rule of thumb; Ball to center of axle should be twice the distance as center to center on tire... Example: 3' tire to tire center needs close to 6' from axle to ball coupler... Longer doesn't effect it...

14 ~ Swivels for trailers is a nice option, but not a necessity... A coupler has a 28 degree movement in every direction and will not bind... But if your bike should tip over, than a swivel is then appreciated... Can be added to most trailers any time...

15~ Do not overload manufactures weight capacity... My rule of thumb is; 13 pounds for each cubic foot of cargo capacity... So a trailer with 18 cubic feet of cargo space times the 13 pounds per cubic foot equals 234 Lbs carry capacity... Follow hitch manufactures recommendations...

16 ~ Never leave home without a can of instant tire flat and a tire plug repair kit... Bungee cords, duct tape, electrical tape and tie raps are also very handy...

17 ~ Drinking or drugs while driving is stupid... While on a motorcycle will probably be fatal... Read prescription drugs for side effects...

18 ~ Railroad tracks proceed over at ninety degree angle...

19 ~ High on the important list is a good flash-light and a first aid kit... Imagine having a accident on a dark moonless night... you or your passenger could bleed to death if you had neither... Paper and pen is also a good idea to write down all information if involved in a accident, you may need it later...

20 ~ Last, for 2 up riders... You're tired, been riding all day, you're getting gas, your love one went to get directions but you know you're not lost, don't take off without her or him... Will not make for a good day when she or he catches up with you... Enjoy each other's company, when you stop for the night and leave TV off... Talk, read or maybe take a little walk...

~~ May be copied... Keep one in your trailer for reference... ~
Make copies for your friends or club members.
Motorcycle Group Riding:
Top 10 Things You Should Know

For every member riding in a motorcycle group, it is their responsibility to promote safety and not interfere with the flow of traffic.

#1 Ride in a Small Motorcycle Group - Small motorcycle groups are easier for other drivers to handle and they don't interfere with traffic as much as larger groups. Some members can easily get cut off from larger groups, so try to bunch up the riders in smaller motorcycle groups.

#2 Keep the Motorcycle Group Together - The leader of the motorcycle group must plan to signal for changes. All the other group members should brake earlier than normal to alert the riders behind them. The leader must allow enough room for the whole motorcycle group to follow; permitting everyone to complete a lane change safely, or pull off the side of the road together.

#3 Put Beginners Up in Front of the Motorcycle Group - It is a good idea to position the least experienced riders in front of the pack so the seasoned motorcyclists can watch over them.

#4 Watch Those In the Back of the Motorcycle Group - Allow the trailing rider to set the pace. Keep an eye on the last rider by using the mirrors, if he should fall behind have everyone slow so the motorcycle group can remain together.

#5 Know the Motorcycle Group's Travel Route - Ever rider in the motorcycle group should familiarize them self with the route plan. In the circumstance that some body should get separated from the pack, they won't have to worry about being lost. On the same note, plan frequent stops during long motorcycle group trips.

#6 Keep A Space Cushion - Motorcycle groups should maintain close ranks but at safe distance from each other. Allow enough space so each rider can react to changes, but close enough to each other that you don't take up a lot of space on the highway and cannot be separated.

#7 Motorcycle group members should not Pair Up! - Never ride directly along next to another motorcyclist. If you do, there won't be any place to go is there is a hazard in the road. If you have to communicate, use audio transmitter devices or just pull over.

#8 Staggered Formation is the best way to keep the motorcycle group in order. Starting at the front, the leader rides in the left portion of the lane while the second rider goes in the right portion at about one-second following distance. The third rider goes in the left portion of the lane about two seconds behind the leader.

#9 Pass other vehicles in staggered formation one at a time. - The leader safely pulls out and passes into the left portion of the other lane maintaining speed. The second rider pulls out and maintains his position once he's in the right portion of the new lane. Each rider moves up to left and passes, one at a time, making room for the next member of the group.

#10 Motorcycle Groups must Travel in Single File When... - Riding curves, turning, entering or leaving a highway should be done in single-file.

Many motorcyclists assume riding in a group won't be different from riding solo. In fact, just being in a motorcycle group changes the dynamics of riding a lot. You have to maintain extra awareness of those around you in the motorcycle group.

Thurlow

SPRING MOTORCYCLE CHECK LIST

T – Tires and Wheels

• Check the air pressure of your tires and inflate to the pressure specified in your owner’s manual. Look for wear-and-tear on the treads, cracks, bulges or embedded objects.
• Check your wheels for roundness, cracks and dents, and bent, broken or missing spokes.

 C – Controls

• Review the levers and pedals to make sure they’re still lubricated, and adjusted and fitted properly.
• Inspect cables to make sure they are not frayed, kinked, or folded into sharp angles. Also, test to make sure your bike’s cables at no time interfere with your ability to steer.
• Check hoses for cuts, cracks, leaks, bulges, chafing or deterioration.
• Test that the throttle moves freely, does not stick and snaps closed when released.

L – Lights

• If you removed your battery over the winter months, install it-your owner’s manual should tell you how. Check the battery to make sure the terminals are clean and tight; it’s properly charged and secured. Check the vent tube to confirm it is not kinked or plugged, and is routed properly.
• Look over the lenses on the bike to make sure they are not cracked or broken, are securely mounted and do not have excessive condensation trapped within.
• Make sure the reflectors are not cracked, broken and are securely mounted.
• Review the bike’s headlamp for cracks. Confirm it points at the right height and direction. Test the operation of the high beam and low beam options.
• Test the tail lamp and brake lights to make sure they work when they should, and they are not cracked. Clean and ensure they are properly secured.
• Test both of the turn signals – left and right!

O- Oil and Other fluids

• Check the levels and quality of the engine oil, hypoid gear oil, shaft drive, hydraulic fluid, coolant and fuel. Replace or top-up fluids that need it.
• Check for leaks of these same fluids.

C – Chassis

• Review the condition of the frame, looking for lifting paint, cracks, or dents.
• Make sure the front forks and rear shocks are properly adjusted.
• Check the tension of the belt or chain. Lubricate the chain if needed, and inspect the teeth of the sprockets confirming they are not hooked and are properly mounted.
• Replace broken or missing fasteners and tighten if loosened.

S- Stands

• For both center stands and side stands, make sure they are not cracked or bent and that it springs into place and has the required tension to hold the bike in position.

Finally, and what many believe is most important—review your motorcycle insurance coverage. No matter what “level” of rider you are – or how often you ride – motorcycle insurance is absolutely crucial. Even if you have been riding the same bike for years, it’s a great idea to take a close look at your motorcycle insurance coverage. Things change, times change and chances are your policy may need to be updated to meet your changing lifestyle.

FROM THE SEAT OF MY HD

I’ve just read a new clip from my local newspaper which I would like to share with you:

Two die in motorcycle crash.

A man and woman were killed Thursday night after the motorcycle they were riding went out of control and struck a guardrail on the Stevenson Expressway near Summit, Illinois State police said. Killed (male) 42 of age from the south Chicago area, and passenger (female) age 25. The male was driving his motorcycle southbound near 1st. Avenue about 7:40pm at a speed of at least 70 mph when he lost control on a curve and struck a guardrail on the right, according to State Police. He did at the scene, and the passenger (female) was pronounced dead at 8:23pm at an area Hospital.

Reading this article and not knowing all that happen, a few factors about this crash jump out. The first contributing cause would be the speed the diver was traveling at. The second was failure to negotiate a curve properly. Failure to negotiate a curve is the leading cause of motorcycle crash. Watch video of riders, on U-Tube, riding the dragon and “crashing”.

Not knowing if this driver has had any motorcycle training, the question is how should he have approach that curve? The proper way would apply the four steps to negotiate a curve. SLOW, LOOK, PRESS, and ROLL. All four steps are done before the curve.

Slow is about entry speed. Entry speed is the first part of the equation. We must slow to a speed that allows us to negotiate the turn. Riders crash in turns due to excess speed in cornering. Since braking in a turn isn’t always the best choice (you can‘t use the same traction for turning and braking -- something has to give), choosing the proper entry speed for a turn is crucial. If we choose the proper entry speed, we don’t need to brake; we can concentrate on the corner and move on to the next step in the process.

Look through the curve. It gives you direction information, and information about the road. The easy way to remember, (YOU LOOK WHERE YOU GO YOU GO WHERE YOU LOOK).

Press pressing on the bar in the direction we want to go, we initiate lean. When the bike leans it turns. When we reach the right lean, we ease up on the pressure, the bike’s steering geometry balances and we are in a turn. To stand the bike back up after the turn smoothly and quickly, we press on the outside grip, the bike “falls” up.

Roll on the throttle and you will have a better corner. Just a slight roll on the throttle throughout the turn causes the bike to stabilize on its suspension and transfers weight to the rear wheel. The bike ends up in a steady state of constant acceleration throughout the turn. This makes for a better turn. All four steps are done before the curve.

So, what can go wrong? If you don’t Slow your entry speed will be too high. If you don’t Look through the turn, you won’t see where you are going. You will end up making slight, twitchy, unsure, unstable mid-course corrections for every little blurry ripple you see three feet in front of your bike. If you don’t Press u can’t make the bike lean, you can’t really turn. Remember the Press initiates the lean, the lean makes the bike turn. If you don’t lean over far enough, you can run wide. If you don’t Roll, the bike isn’t as stable and it won’t hold the line you want. The riding season is here, and we all need to review our motorcycle skills. Let stay safe and as always

RIDE WITH PRIDE.

Tee

Online Motorcycle Safety Awareness Course

Rider Attitude

I’m writing this while flying home from Maui HI. I just enjoyed 13 days, in sun and surf. While there I notice something that bothers me. I think it’s been bother me for a while. Everyone talks about safety but do we practice it the way we should. We talk about how to look ahead, and react to dangers situation. We talk about proper clothing that would help minimizes injuries. We talk about practicing, and improving our skills to ride the road.

Now the things that bother me is as I watched motorcycles in Maui, as in my home area. Watching riders in shorts, tank top, flip flops, and anything that wouldn’t protect them if they crash. Riders tailgate vehicles, cutting in and out of traffic, riding aggressive in traffic but not giving themselves and escape route.

I know that most of you are safe riders, but how many times during this riding season did you cut in front of a vehicle because you were in a hurry. How many times did you jump on the motorcycle just to run a quick errand without proper gear. As some of us will be putting our bikes away for the winter season, maybe it’s time to check our altitude on how we ride.

To the entire GLRC chapters, pleas sent me an update on who your chapter safety officer is. I’m going to put a new list together to pass on any information. One of the new thing coming out of Illinois is the MSF three wheel basic riding course (Check the MSF website to lean what the course is about).

I will also try to get more safety videos post on my page, so if you see something that is interesting sent me a copy.

I have enclosed the MSF Rider Tips pamphlet for you to read.  Hopefully your riding attitude will become more safety oriented.

The Deadly Dozen:
12 Motorcycle Safety Myths and Misconceptions

When science meets urban legend and imperfect logic, some of the "facts" motorcyclists think they "know" about motorcycle safety, crashes, and riding turn out to be dangerous myths and misconceptions. From the February 2006 issue of Motorcycle Cruiser

Motorcyclists should be extremely cautious about what they hear about motorcycle safety. Some of it may be dangerously wrong.

Get a group of motorcyclists talking about crashes and safety, and you will almost certainly hear some of them—popular misconceptions, incorrect assumptions, urban legends, and intuitive explanations about motorcycle safety that turn out to be wrong when you actually check out the facts. The problem is that believing these misconceptions can increase your chances of being involved in an accident or getting hurt when you do crash.

Maybe you know BS when you hear it, but maybe you have heard some myths repeated so often or by people whose expertise you respect that you think they are actually true. Unfortunately, there are a lot of motorcyclists who do believe them. We thought that some of these fallacies should be brought out into the light of day so that riders have the right information upon which to make informed riding-safety decisions. We also hope it will keep more motorcyclists from repeating such misconceptions to riders who turn to them for advice.

These are the Deadly Dozen, the motorcycle safety myths and urban legends ones that we hear most frequently.

Myth 1: Other Drivers Don't Care About Motorcyclists

It may seem hard to believe at times, but other drivers almost never actually want to hit you. Most of those near-misses come about because they don't always know you are there, even when you are right in front of them, seemingly in plain view. You can be obscured or completely hidden by glare, by other things on or along the road, by the cars roof pillars, the handicap hangtag, or by other traffic. Of course, not all drivers "think motorcycles" and make the effort to look that extra bit harder to see if there might be a motorcyclist hidden by that obscuration or in their blind spot.

Instead of assuming that they will ignore you even when they see you, you should help make it easier for drivers to spot you, especially as the population ages and more drivers have greater difficulty in picking you out. To overcome the fact that you might be hard to see and harder to notice, wear bright colors, especially on your helmet and jacket. Run your high beam during the day. Think about things that can hide you and your bike from other drivers, things that can be as common as the sun behind you, the car ahead in the next lane, or a couple of roadside poles that line up on the driver's line of sight toward you. Make an effort to ride in or move to a location where drivers with potentially conflicting courses can see you before they stray your way.

Myth 2: Loud Pipes Save Lives

Yeah, there are a few situations—like where you are right next to a driver with his window down who is about the to change lanes—where full-time noise-makers might help a driver notice you, but all that noise directed rearward doesn't do much in the most common and much more dangerous conflict where a car turns in front of you. Maybe it's the fatigue caused by the noise, maybe it's the attitudes of riders who insist on making annoying noise, or perhaps loud bikes annoy enough drivers to make them aggressive. Whatever the reason, the research shows that bikes with modified exhaust systems crash more frequently than those with stock pipes. If you really want to save lives, turn to a loud jacket or a bright helmet color, which have been proven to do the job. Or install a louder horn. Otherwise, just shut up.

Myth 3: Motorcycle Helmets Break Necks

It seems logical—you put more weight out there on the end of your neck and when you get thrown off the bike, that extra weight will create more pendulum force on your neck. Turns out, it doesn't work that way. In fact, the energy-absorbing qualities of a DOT motorcycle helmet also absorb the energy that breaks riders' necks in impacts. Studies show that helmeted motorcyclists actually suffer fewer neck injuries when they crash compared to riders who crash without helmets.

Myth 4: Helmets Block Your Ability to See or Hear Danger

The thing you learn when you dig into the research is that motorcycle riders who use helmets crash less frequently than those who don't. Maybe that happens because motorcyclists who decide to wear helmets have a better or more realistic attitude about riding. Maybe it's because putting on a helmet is a reminder that what you are about to do can be dangerous and the act of accepting protection puts you in the right mindset. Maybe it's because a helmet provides eye protection and cuts down wind noise so you can actually see and hear better. Maybe it’s because, by cutting wind pressure and noise, a helmet reduces fatigue. Whatever the reasons, wearing a helmet clearly does not increase a motorcyclist's risk of having an accident and wearing one correlates to reduced likelihood of an accident.

Myth 5: A Helmet Won't Help in Most Crashes

People look at the seemingly low impact speeds used in motorcycle-helmet testing and assume that if you are going faster than that, the helmet will no longer be up to the job. That ignores a few critical facts:

Most accidents happen at relatively low speeds. Most of the impact energy is usually vertical—the distance your head falls until it hits. Helmets (or at least helmets that meet DOT standards) perform spectacular life-saving feats at impact speeds far above those used in testing. When a helmeted rider suffers a fatal head injury, it frequently doesn't matter, because, to hit hard enough to sustain that fatal injury, he sustained multiple additional fatal injuries to other parts of his body. In other words, the fact that the helmet didn't prevent the head injury was of no consequence. The numbers clearly say that riders using DOT helmets simply survive crashes more successfully than those without them.

The only events where being on the ground might leave you better off are: 1) on an elevated roadway where going over the guardrail will cause you to fall a long way, or 2) in that situation you see occasionally in movies, where the motorcyclist slides under a semi trailer without touching it. That's a good trick if the truck is moving.

Myth 6: A Helmet Will Leave You Brain Damaged in a Crash When You Would Have Simply Died

Of course that's possible—your helmet attenuates the impact energy enough to keep the injury from being fatal but not enough to keep all of your eggs from getting scrambled. However, that's rare, and if you hit that hard, you are likely to get killed by some other injury. It's actually the un-helmeted rider who is likely to cross from animal to vegetable kingdom, and often from a relatively minor impact that would have damaged nothing but his ego if he'd been wearing a DOT helmet.

Myth 7: A Skilled Rider Should Be Able to Handle Almost Any Situation

The sharpest, most skilled motorcyclist in the world isn't going to be up to the task when a car turns or pulls out in front of him a short distance ahead and stops directly in his path broadside. Believing that your superior skills will keep you of trouble is a pipe dream, even if they are as good as you think. No matter how skilled you are, it's better to ride to avoid situations that can turn ugly. Slow down, scan farther ahead, and think strategically. And dress for the crash.

Myth 8: If You Are Going to Crash, Lay It Down

I suspect this line was developed by riders to explain why they ended up flat-side-down while trying to avoid a crash. They over-braked or otherwise lost control, then tried to explain the crash away as intentional and tried to make it sound like it wasn't a crash at all. Maybe motorcycle brakes once were so bad that you could stop better off your bike while sliding or tumbling. If so, that hasn't been true for decades. You can scrub off much more speed before and there be going slower at impact with effective braking than you will sliding down the road on your butt. And if you are still on the bike, you might get thrown over the car you collide with, avoiding an impact with your body. If you slide into a car while you are on the ground, you either have a hard stop against it or end up wedged under it. Remember that the phrase "I laid 'er down to avoid a crash" is an oxymoron, often repeated by some other kind of moron.

http://www.motorcyclecruiser.com/streetsurvival/dangerous_motorcycle_safety_myths/photo_02.html

If you are going to ride a motorcycle in the near future, no beer is enough beer.

The only events where being on the ground might leave you better off are: 1) on an elevated roadway where going over the guardrail will cause you to fall a long way, or 2) in that situation you see occasionally in movies, where the motorcyclist slides under a semi trailer without touching it. That's a good trick if the truck is moving.

Myth 9: One Beer Won't Hurt

Maybe not while you are drinking it, but if you get on your motorcycle after that, the effects of a single beer can get you hurt for life. No matter how unaffected you are sure you are, all the studies say differently. You increase your risk to yourself and to others when you drink and hit the road. Also, as you age, your metabolism slows down, and those "coupla drinks" you had last night may still be affecting you when you hit the road the next morning.

Myth 10: It's Better to Stay in Your Lane than Split Lanes

In most parts of the world, motorcycles split lanes all the time, everywhere traffic is heavy. Here in the U.S., people often act as if lane-splitting is insane. But when someone actually studied it in the only place in the U.S. where it's legal (California), they discovered it's actually slightly safer than staying in the lane in heavy, slow-moving traffic. Still many motorcyclists berate others who do it, when they should in fact be endorsing it.

Myth 11: I'm Safer on the Street than on an Interstate

The thinking here must be that slower is safer, but that's only really true after the accident begins. Controlled-access roadways are inherently safer because all the traffic is going the same way, and there are no side streets from which someone can pop into your path, no pedestrians, and, often, less roadside "furniture" to hit if you depart the roadway. Running down the road at 70 mph side-by-sidewall with the whirling wheels of a semi may feel hairy, but you are actually safer than at half that speed on a city street or even a country road.

Myth 12: A Skilled Rider Can Stop Better with Conventional Brakes than with Anti-Lock Brakes

Extensive testing done recently disproves this popular notion. Even on clean, dry, flat pavement, skilled, experienced riders (who did hundreds of panic stops for the testing on outrigger-equipped motorcycles) stopped in less distance with anti-lock brakes (ABS) than with conventional or linked braking systems. Though the tests didn't include samples on surfaces with slick, dirty or wet spots, ABS certainly would have performed even better under those conditions while eliminating much of the risk of crashing.

The other cool thing about ABS on a motorcycle is that allows you to safely practice panic stops without risking a crash caused by lock-up.

Anyway, the next time tells you that he had to "lay it down" or that green bikes crash more than purple ones, you can nod and snicker internally or challenge them. Just don't base your own riding choices on what other people assume unless there is some solid science to back it up.

For more information on safe-riding equipment, strategies, techniques and skills, see the Street Survival section of MotorcycleCruiser.com

As always ride safely, and RIDE WITH PRIDE.

Thurlow (Tee) Haskell
Safety Officer GLRC